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Rajasthan: The Young Brat from Mandawa
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Travelling in Rajasthan in February 2008
Jaipur >> Shekhawati >> Pushkar >> Jaisalmer >> Jodhpur
Continued from Images of paintings on the havelis
'Shhh... shhh...' I heard someone calling me, and turned around as I wandered the dusty streets of Mandawa in search of the painted Havelis. Standing there was a young brat, probably a dozen years old, in red pullover with a sun burnt face that imparted a lot of confidence and some brashness. His accomplice who was equally young stood quiet next to him, as though he did not want to get involved.
"Do you want someone to show you around?" he asked me.
I did not think much of a kid who seemed to be up to making some extra buck. I shook my head and was about to move on, but he persisted. Speaking in Hindi, he began his marketing pitch and assured me that he can show the best Havelis in town. I was taken by surprise when he quoted his price - 'two hundred and fifty per hour'. Professional guides in touristy places charge just about a hundred to show around, and here I had a kid quoting me his hourly rates!
I politely declined, but was followed by the persistent young man. Walking further, I was soon lost in the unfamiliar narrow lanes of Mandawa without a map to guide me. It was tough finding someone on the street who could give me directions to the havelis I was looking for. The colorful Havelis of the town have made it to tourist brochures and guidebooks, but the locals were blissfully oblivious to their treasures.
"Where is Gulba Rai Ladia Haveli?" I went on asking people on the street. Some people seemed confused and shook their heads, or tried to ask the same question to someone nearby. Others simply said they have no clue. There I was, coming from a place faraway in search of something beautiful, and people here were completely unmindful of what they lived with. It is not my first time; I have met people from Agra who have never been to Taj Mahal, but at least they had heard about the monument and knew where it was.
After struggling for a few minutes, I gave up and asked the young man who was following me for help. He echoed his marketing pitch again, and assured me that he will show me the best havelis in town.
"Give me 250, and I will show you four good havelis in an hour's time."
"But I would like to spend a few hours in just one haveli," I told him.
It was the wrong thing to say. He probably thought we are now at the negotiation table, quoted a better rate and hoped for some business. I declined his offer, and asked him again if he can give directions to Gulab Rai Ladia's haveli. And as an afterthought, I offered an incentive to his help - "I will just walk around and quickly go past all the havelis today. Give me the directions, and may be I will hire you tomorrow." Another mistake. He took me along the narrow alleys and led me to one of the two Mandawa's main roads. "Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli is far away," he said, "you go and see the market and the town today, I will take you to the haveli tomorrow!"
I realized later that he had actually taken me in a direction opposite to the haveli I was looking for. And yet, he persistent guide had high hopes of being hired in the days to come. He hung around on the main roads of the town and met me twice in next two days, each time asking me when are we going on the 'guided trip'. I smiled both times and told him "let's go tomorrow when I am free."
The last time when I met him before leaving the town, I asked for his name. "Laalooo..," came the response.
To be continued..
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Update 2. The following email from NDTV puts an end to the story amicably. Swift response from NDTV is appreciable. Thanks to Amit from NDTV for handling this in a professional manner. I received another email again from Amit, assuring that they will keep a strict watch on origin of content that goe...
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Arun
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About This Blogger
Arun Bhat is a freelance travel writer and photographer. While he is not writing for India Travel Blog, you can see him exploring the corners of India, be it trekking in the high mountains, looking out for colorful birds in the forest, immersed in the country s ancient architecture, relaxing in a beach or searching for less known locations. Some day he hopes to document the beauty of India in words and pictures, end to end.
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